3-second answer: Click, no crank = the solenoid engages but the starter motor won't spin. When it happens only when hot, it's heat soak — the starter's thermal expansion. The fixes: a heat shield or wrap (cheap, often enough), a high-torque mini starter (the real fix, ~$150), or check the battery cables first (corroded cables fake every starter symptom).
Diagnose
- Single click, no crank → solenoid + bad starter connection or dead starter.
- Rapid clicks → battery voltage drops (weak battery or bad connection).
- Nothing at all → neutral safety switch, ignition switch, or wiring.
- Hot-only failure → heat soak (or a bad starter armature that expands).
- Test: jump the solenoid's S terminal with a screwdriver — if it cranks, the ignition side is fine.
The fix
- Battery cables first — clean/tighten both ends, check the ground. Half of 'starter problems' are cables.
- Heat soak — a starter heat shield ($20-30) or header wrap; cheap and often fixes the hot-only no-crank.
- Starter swap — 2 bolts + the solenoid nut, 30 minutes. Get a high-torque mini starter for a hot engine bay or big compression — the single best upgrade for these trucks.
- Torque the solenoid stud nut snug; the mounting bolts ~35-45 ft-lb.
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