3-second answer: Grab the tire at 9-and-3 and rock — horizontal play = tie rod ends (or the drag link). Replacement: the outer end is a castle nut + taper (separator tool), the inner threads into the adjuster sleeve. Count the turns when you loosen the sleeve so toe stays close, then get an alignment. Torque the castle nuts and always install new cotter pins.
The check
- 9-and-3 rock = tie rod play (ball joints are 12-and-6 — see ball joints).
- Torn boots on the ends = water got in = wear coming.
- A loose drag link (the long bar to the steering box) feels like a dead spot in the steering wheel.
The swap
- Loosen the adjuster sleeve clamp bolts (they're often seized — soak them).
- Mark/count the threads on the old end so the new one goes back to the same position.
- Separator tool (pickle fork) on the taper — don't beat the threads.
- New end in, thread the sleeve back the same turns, torque the clamp, castle nut to spec + cotter pin.
- Alignment: toe should be checked after — a decent shop or the string method on a flat floor.
Numbers
- Outer tie rod castle nut: ~40-60 ft-lb (then align the cotter slot)
- Sleeve clamp bolts: snug (they just hold position)
- Always: new cotter pins, grease the new ends
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